Chiles Rellenos

Step 1

Char the poblanos directly over a gas flame, under a very hot grill or on a dry cast-iron pan, turning them until the skin is blistered and blackened all over, about 10 minutes. Put them in a bowl, cover it tightly and leave for 15 minutes to loosen the skins.

Step 2

Peel the peppers by rubbing off the skin with your fingers, and do not rinse them, as water washes away the smoky flavour. Leave the stems on. Make one lengthwise slit from just below the stem to about 2 cm from the tip, and remove the seeds and white ribs through the slit with a small spoon, keeping the pepper whole. Blot the inside dry with paper towel.

Step 3

Cut the cheese into batons about 1.5 cm thick and as long as the opening in each pepper. Fill each pepper until it is full but still closes, and secure the slit with a toothpick if it gapes. Chill for 20 minutes, which firms the cheese so it does not leak while frying.

Step 4

Make the sauce. Blend the tomatoes with the onion, garlic and water until smooth. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan, add the blended mixture and simmer on medium-low for 15–20 minutes, until slightly reduced and no longer raw-tasting. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

Step 5

Spread 60 g of the flour on a plate. Roll the peppers lightly in it, shaking off any excess, so the flour forms a thin film that the batter can grip. Return to the plate.

Step 6

Separate the eggs. Whisk the whites with a pinch of salt until they hold stiff, glossy peaks. Stir the yolks with the remaining 20 g of flour until smooth, and fold them into the whites with a spatula in two additions, stopping when no streaks remain. Make this just before frying, and do not let it stand.

Step 7

Pour the remaining oil into a wide, deep pan to a depth of about 3 cm. Heat it to 175 °C. A spoonful of batter dropped in should sizzle and rise at once, without browning in the first 10 seconds.

Step 8

Hold a pepper by its stem and dip it into the batter, turning until fully coated. Lay it into the oil away from you, and spoon more batter over any gaps. Fry no more than 2 at a time.

Step 9

Spoon hot oil over the top of each pepper as it fries. After 2–3 minutes, when the underside is golden and set, turn it carefully with two spatulas and cook the other side for 2 minutes more, until puffed and deep golden. Lift onto a wire rack, not paper towel, which makes the underside soggy. Repeat with the rest, whisking the batter lightly between batches if it deflates.

Step 10

Spoon a pool of warm sauce onto each plate and lay two peppers in it, so the sauce surrounds them without soaking the crust. Serve immediately.