Supplì

A supplì is a Roman fried rice croquette with a molten mozzarella centre. It is one of the classic street foods of Rome, sold hot from shops and bars and eaten by hand. The name is usually traced to the French word surprise, for the cheese hidden inside. When the croquette is bitten, the melted mozzarella pulls into long strings, which is why Romans also call it supplì al telefono, after the old telephone cord.

What it really is

Rice is cooked in tomato sauce until it is thick enough to hold a shape, then cooled. A spoonful is wrapped around a piece of mozzarella, shaped into a small oval, rolled in beaten egg and breadcrumbs, and deep fried until the outside is golden and crisp. The cheese melts as it heats, so the centre is soft and very hot. Versions with meat ragù in the rice also exist, so the same name can cover a dish that is not vegetarian.

How it's served

• Hot from the fryer, on paper or a small plate, and eaten in the hand or with a fork.
• As a street snack, or as one item in a selection of fried bites at the start of a meal.
• Best eaten within minutes of frying, while the mozzarella is still soft. It firms as it cools.

How to write it on the menu

• Name the rice and the filling: rice cooked in tomato sauce with mozzarella. Say whether meat ragù is included, since that changes the dish for vegetarians.
• Flag milk (the mozzarella), eggs (the coating) and wheat (the breadcrumbs).
• Warn that the centre is molten, so guests know to wait before biting.
• State whether the price is per piece or per portion, and how many pieces make a portion.