Bún Bò Huế

Bún bò Huế is round rice noodles in a beef-and-pork broth built on lemongrass, chilli oil and fermented shrimp paste until it turns deep red and sharply spiced. It carries the name of Huế, the former imperial capital in central Vietnam, and the broth's heat and intensity are a direct contrast to phở's gentler, clearer stock from further north — central Vietnamese cooking generally runs spicier and bolder than the north's.

What it really is

Beef bones and often a piece of pork knuckle simmer for hours into a broth seasoned heavily with lemongrass and fermented shrimp paste, then finished with a slick of red chilli oil that gives the whole bowl its distinctive colour and heat. Thick, round rice noodles — noticeably chewier than phở's flat ones — go into the bowl with sliced beef shank, a round of chả lụa (pork sausage) and sometimes a piece of pork knuckle, then a scatter of banana blossom and herbs on top.

The shrimp paste and lemongrass together are what make the broth taste like Huế and nowhere else in Vietnam. Pull either one out and the broth reads as a generic spicy beef noodle soup — it's specifically that fermented, funky depth against the citrus-sharp lemongrass that gives bún bò Huế its identity.

How it's served

• Hot, in a bowl, broth ladled over noodles, beef and pork together.
• With a plate of banana blossom, bean sprout, mint and lime alongside, added at the table.
• As a main dish, eaten at any hour, though it's a common breakfast in central Vietnam.

How to write it on the menu

• Flag the shellfish from the shrimp paste and the fish sauce used in seasoning.
• Say how spicy the broth runs, since the chilli oil can be genuinely fiery and guests may want it dialled back.
• Note which cuts of meat are included, since beef shank, pork knuckle and chả lụa are common but not universal additions.