Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Carbonara is a Roman pasta of guanciale, egg yolk, Pecorino Romano and black pepper. It is one of the four classic pastas of Rome, alongside cacio e pepe, amatriciana and gricia — and the one most often made wrong outside Italy.

What it actually is

Guanciale — cured pork jowl — is cut into strips and rendered slowly until the fat runs and the edges crisp. Hot drained spaghetti goes into the pan, then the heat comes off, and beaten egg yolks with grated Pecorino Romano are stirred through with a splash of starchy pasta water.

That water is the trick: it emulsifies the yolk and cheese into a glossy sauce that clings to every strand. There is no cream in the traditional recipe, and the eggs must never scramble.

How it's served

• Immediately, straight from the pan — it stiffens as it cools.
• With extra Pecorino and pepper at the table.
• On rigatoni instead of spaghetti, which many Roman kitchens prefer.

Pancetta or bacon commonly stands in for guanciale outside Italy.

Writing it on a menu

• Name the cured pork you use — guanciale, pancetta or bacon. Regulars notice.
• Say "no cream" outright if that's how you make it; it is the single most common question.
• Flag that the yolk is lightly cooked by residual heat, which matters for some guests.