Aşure

Aşure is a sweet Turkish pudding of wheat, beans, chickpeas, dried fruit and nuts, cooked in a large pot and shared with neighbours. It is traditionally made in the Muharram period, the first month of the Islamic calendar, and it is often linked to the story of Noah's ark, which is told in several versions. The dish is not one fixed recipe: each household and mosque kitchen has its own mix of ingredients.

What it really is

Wheat and dried white beans are soaked, then simmered with chickpeas until all the grains and pulses are soft. Sugar is added, followed by dried apricots and raisins, then hazelnuts and walnuts. Cinnamon gives the pudding its warm note. The pot is stirred slowly until the mixture is thick and spoonable, and the wheat has broken down so that the whole dish is soft and porridge-like.

Aşure is a dessert, not a soup. It is thick, sweet and studded with fruit and nuts, and it is eaten with a spoon. The sweetness comes from the sugar and the dried fruit, and the nuts add texture.

How it's served

• In a shallow bowl or serving dish, with fruit and nuts scattered over the top.
• Shared out in small containers to neighbours and family, which is part of the tradition.
• Warm or cold, depending on the household and the occasion.

How to write it on the menu

• Name the grains and pulses: wheat, white beans and chickpeas, so guests know it is a grain pudding and not a fruit dessert.
• Flag wheat, hazelnuts and walnuts. The nuts are often sprinkled on top, so list them even when they look like a garnish.
• Say the classic version is vegan, with no dairy or egg, and that it is sweetened with sugar and dried fruit.
• Say that the fruit and nut mix varies from kitchen to kitchen, and that the pudding is usually made in batches.