Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse is the fish stew of Marseille — rockfish cooked in a broth of olive oil, tomato, fennel and saffron. It began as a fishermen's meal, made from the bony fish that could not be sold at market. That origin still shapes it: the point is several kinds of fish, not one good one.

What it actually is

A broth is built from olive oil, onion, tomato, fennel, garlic and saffron, often with a strip of dried orange peel (a regional touch, not a universal rule), and potatoes are commonly cooked in it. Into the boiling broth go several kinds of Mediterranean rockfish — traditionally including scorpionfish, conger and gurnard — the firmer fish first and the delicate ones later, rather than gently poached. The classic described here is fish only; many restaurants also add shellfish such as prawns or mussels.

A charter agreed by Marseille restaurateurs sets out which fish a true bouillabaisse should contain and how it should reach the table. It is a benchmark rather than a law, but serious kitchens follow it.

How it's served

• In two separate dishes — the broth in one, the fish on its own platter in the other, traditionally carved in front of the guest. Guests may eat them together in a deep plate or apart.
• With rouille — a garlicky saffron-and-chilli sauce spread on toasted bread; grated cheese is sometimes served too.
• For two or more, often ordered a day in advance, because it is slow and costly to make properly.

Writing it on a menu

• Say it comes in two separate dishes; guests who don't know the dish expect one bowl.
• List the fish you use, and whether shellfish is included.
• State the minimum party size and any pre-order requirement — this is the detail that saves service.
• Note the allergens plainly: fish, gluten in the croutons, and egg in rouille made with yolk. Crustaceans and molluscs apply only if you add prawns, mussels or other shellfish, and milk only if grated cheese is served.