Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse is the fish stew of Marseille — rockfish simmered with saffron, fennel and orange peel. It began as a fishermen's meal, made from the bony fish that could not be sold at market. That origin still shapes it: the point is several kinds of fish, not one good one.

What it actually is

A broth is built from olive oil, tomato, fennel, garlic, saffron and dried orange peel. Into it go several kinds of Mediterranean rockfish — traditionally including scorpionfish, conger and gurnard — cooked just until done.

A charter agreed by Marseille restaurateurs sets out which fish a true bouillabaisse should contain and how it should reach the table. It is a benchmark rather than a law, but serious kitchens follow it.

How it's served

• In two services — the broth first, the fish afterwards on its own platter.
• With rouille — a garlicky saffron-and-chilli sauce spread on toasted bread, with grated cheese.
• For two or more, often ordered a day in advance, because it is slow and costly to make properly.

Writing it on a menu

• Say it comes in two services; guests who don't know the dish expect one bowl.
• List the fish you use, and whether shellfish is included.
• State the minimum party size and any pre-order requirement — this is the detail that saves service.
• Note the allergens plainly: fish, gluten in the croutons, egg in the rouille.