Tlayuda

Tlayuda is a large, thin corn tortilla toasted until crisp, spread with refried black beans and topped with asiento, cheese, meat and vegetables, from the Valles Centrales of Oaxaca. It is sold as street food and in markets across the state.

What it really is

The base is a large, thin corn tortilla made from nixtamalized masa, pressed wide and cooked on a comal until it is dry and crisp rather than soft. A layer of refried black beans is spread over it, often with a little asiento (pork lard, the rendered fat that gives the dish much of its flavour). It is then topped with quesillo (a stringy Oaxacan cheese), shredded cabbage, sliced tomato, avocado and sometimes tasajo (thin dried beef) or chorizo, and folded or left open and finished on the comal or over charcoal until the cheese melts.

It is often mistaken for a pizza or a tostada. Unlike a tostada, the base is a single large tortilla that is toasted whole rather than a small fried or baked shell, and unlike a pizza it has no tomato sauce base or wheat dough. The tortilla itself is the defining part.

How it's served

• Eaten hot, straight from the comal or grill, usually folded in half or left open on a plate or paper.
• Commonly eaten with the hands, often with salsa roja or green salsa added at the table.
• Often sold by the street vendor and eaten standing or at a simple stall, sometimes with a squeeze of lime.
• Served with a glass of agua fresca or a bottle of beer.

How to write it on the menu

• Name the base and the main toppings: large corn tortilla, refried black beans, quesillo, cabbage and tasajo or chorizo.
• State that the beans are often made with asiento (pork lard) if the restaurant uses it, since this affects vegetarian and pork-free guests.
• Flag dairy from the quesillo cheese.
• Note the choice of meat, such as tasajo (beef), chorizo (pork) or chicken, and whether salsa is served on the side.