Hummus

Rinse the chickpeas and pick out any stones. Put them in a large bowl with plenty of cold water, at least 1 litre, because they swell to more than double their size. Leave them to soak at room temperature for 8–12 hours, or overnight. Drain and rinse again before cooking. Chickpeas that are fully soaked cook faster and finish with a softer, creamier texture.

• chickpea250 g

Put the drained chickpeas in a large pot with the bicarbonate of soda and 1.2 litres of fresh water. Bring to the boil, skim off the foam, then simmer for 45–60 minutes, until the chickpeas are so soft that they crush easily between your fingers and the skins begin to loosen. Add hot water if the level drops. Drain, keeping a cup of the cooking liquid.

• chickpea250 g
• baking soda1 tsp
• water1.6 L

Crush the garlic with a pinch of salt to a paste. In a bowl or the food processor, whisk it with the tahini and lemon juice for 1 minute; the mixture will seize into a stiff paste, which is normal. Add 4 tablespoons of ice-cold water, a little at a time, and keep whisking for 2–3 minutes until it turns pale, light and creamy, like a thick mayonnaise.

• tahini (sesame paste)120 g
• lemon juice60 mL
• garlic2 cloves
• saltto taste

Add the warm chickpeas, the cumin and a pinch of salt to the tahini. Blend for 4–5 minutes, scraping down the sides now and then, until completely smooth and silky. Add the cooking liquid, 1 tablespoon at a time, to loosen it: it should be soft and spreadable, as it firms up when cool. Taste and adjust the salt and lemon juice.

• chickpea250 g
• cumin0.5 tsp

Spoon the hummus into a shallow bowl and use the back of a spoon to swirl it, pushing outwards from the centre to make a wide well. Pour the olive oil into the well. Serve while still lukewarm, or at room temperature, with warm flatbread. A few whole cooked chickpeas, a pinch of cumin or paprika, and some chopped parsley are optional extras.

• olive oil3 tbsp