Ossobuco

Ossobuco is veal shank cut across the bone and braised until it gives. The name means bone with a hole, and that hole — the ring of marrow at the centre of each piece — is the point of the dish.

What it actually is

Thick slices of veal shank, cut across so each carries a section of marrow bone, are dredged in flour and browned in butter. They then braise slowly with onion, white wine and broth for an hour and a half to two hours, until the meat gives to a fork without falling apart.

Just before serving it is finished with gremolata — a raw chop of lemon zest, parsley and garlic, scattered over at the last moment. It is not a garnish. After two hours of braising, it is the only thing on the plate that tastes fresh, and it changes the whole dish.

There are two schools. Ossobuco in bianco — the older Milanese version — uses no tomato at all. The more modern version adds tomato and diced vegetables.

How it's served

• With risotto alla milanese, the classic Milanese pairing, saffron against the braise.
• With polenta, the other standard.
• With a small spoon, so guests can get the marrow out of the bone. Many kitchens supply one without being asked.

Writing it on a menu

• Say whether it is in bianco or with tomato. They look and taste noticeably different.
• Mention the gremolata. It is the reason the dish is not heavy, and it distinguishes yours from a plain braise.
• Name the side — risotto or polenta — since it is half the plate.
• Note the allergens: gluten from the flour dredge, dairy from the butter, alcohol from the wine.