Mantı

Mantı are tiny Turkish dumplings served under garlic yoghurt and spiced butter. They are one of the most labour-intensive dishes in the Turkish repertoire, and the effort is visible on the plate: dozens of parcels, each folded by hand.

What it actually is

Thin dough is rolled out and cut into small squares. Each gets a little spiced minced beef or lamb with grated onion, then is pinched closed into a parcel. They are boiled, drained, and served in a shallow bowl.

Over them goes thick garlic yoghurt, then melted butter infused with pul biber (red pepper flakes) and often dried mint. Sumac sometimes finishes it.

Size is the point of pride. Kayseri is the reference city, and the old saying is that a good cook fits forty of them on a single spoon.

How it's served

• In a shallow bowl, yoghurt underneath and butter poured over at the pass.
• With a spoon, not a fork — you want yoghurt, butter and dumpling together.
• Made in batches and frozen or dried, because folding them takes hours.

Writing it on a menu

• Name the meat — beef or lamb — and say if a vegetarian filling is available.
• Describe the yoghurt and butter topping. That is what the dish actually tastes of, and a menu line that only says "dumplings" sells it short.
• Give a portion weight or count; they are small and guests cannot judge the size from the name.
• Note the allergens: gluten, dairy and egg.