Tamales

Tamales are corn masa steamed inside a corn husk wrapper around a savoury or sweet filling. They are Mexico's portable, wrapped answer to what to do with dough and no oven, and they are as much a ritual as a recipe — making a big batch is traditionally a group activity, not a solo one.

What it actually is

Corn masa is beaten with lard until light and fluffy — the texture depends almost entirely on how much air gets worked in — then spread onto a soaked corn husk. A spoonful of filling, most often pork in red chile sauce, goes in the centre, and the husk is folded closed before the whole bundle is stacked upright in a steamer and cooked over simmering water for an hour or more.

Sweet versions exist too, filled with pineapple or raisins in a lightly sweetened masa, and regional versions swap the corn husk for a banana leaf, which gives a softer, slightly different flavour to the masa itself.

How it's served

• Unwrapped at the table, the husk discarded — it is never eaten.
• Stacked in a steamer basket, sold by the piece from street stalls, especially at breakfast.
• With atole or hot chocolate, the traditional breakfast pairing.

Writing it on a menu

• Say what's inside; pork, chicken, cheese and sweet versions are different orders, not variations on one dish.
• Note that the husk or leaf is not edible — a detail worth a line for guests who've never had one.
• Flag dairy if you make a cheese-filled version.
• Mention that they're traditionally made in large batches and freeze well — a practical note if you're prepping ahead.