Martabak

Martabak is a thick, folded pancake, and it comes in two entirely different forms under the same name: a savoury version stuffed with spiced minced meat and egg, and a sweet version filled with chocolate, cheese and condensed milk. Yemeni and Indian settlers in Indonesia are credited with introducing an early version of the dish generations ago, and it split and evolved from there into two distinct national favourites that share little beyond the folded pancake shape and the name.

What it really is

For the savoury version, a thin dough wraps around a filling of seasoned minced beef, egg and chopped onion or spring onion, folds into a flat square parcel, and fries in oil until the outside turns golden and crisp. The sweet version starts from a different, thicker batter cooked on a griddle until small bubbles form across the surface, then gets folded over a filling of chocolate sprinkles, grated cheese, condensed milk and sometimes crushed peanuts, before a generous amount of butter or margarine works into the crust.

The two versions are different enough that a guest needs to specify which one they mean. "Martabak" alone doesn't tell a vendor whether the order is savoury or sweet — regulars always name the type, since the two share almost nothing beyond a folded shape and the word itself.

How it's served

• Hot, cut into squares or wedges, eaten by hand or with a fork.
• Savoury martabak with a side of pickled cucumber and a light vinegar-chilli sauce.
• Sweet martabak on its own, sold whole to share.

How to write it on the menu

• Say clearly whether it's the savoury or sweet version, since the name alone is ambiguous.
• Flag the wheat and egg in both versions, and any nuts or dairy in the sweet filling.
• Note the size, since a whole martabak is often meant for sharing rather than a single portion.