Galaktoboureko

Galaktoboureko is a thick semolina custard baked inside layers of buttered phyllo until the top turns deep golden, then soaked through with a cold sugar syrup the moment it leaves the oven. The name combines "galakto," milk, with "boureko," a pastry pie — a straightforward description of what's inside the crisp phyllo shell, and the contrast between that crisp shell and the soft, syrup-soaked custard beneath it is the whole point of the dessert.

What it really is

Milk thickens slowly with semolina and egg into a thick, custard-like filling, sweetened and often scented with a little vanilla or lemon zest. Sheets of phyllo, brushed with butter between each layer, wrap around the custard on all sides — a crisp shell built specifically to hold a soft filling — and the whole thing bakes until the top layers turn deep golden and crackling. The moment it comes out of the oven, a cold sugar syrup pours evenly over the hot pastry, and the temperature difference is what drives the syrup to soak all the way through rather than just sitting on the surface.

Pouring cold syrup over a hot pastry, not the other way round, is what makes the syrup soak all the way through the layers. Getting the temperatures backwards — warm syrup over a cooled pastry — leaves the syrup sitting on top instead of penetrating down into the custard and phyllo, and the dessert ends up dry in the centre rather than soaked through evenly.

How it's served

• At room temperature, cut into squares, after the syrup has had time to soak all the way through.
• As a dessert, often with a strong Greek coffee alongside.
• Rarely served warm from the oven — it needs time to absorb the syrup properly.

How to write it on the menu

• Flag the wheat, dairy and egg.
• It's naturally vegetarian.
• Say how sweet it runs, since the syrup soak makes it noticeably sweeter than an unsoaked custard pastry.