Sushi

Sushi, in its classic nigirizushi form, is vinegared rice hand-pressed into a small oblong and topped with a slice of raw fish, a dab of wasabi tucked between the two. It's built entirely on a contrast of temperature and texture — rice seasoned and served close to body warmth, fish kept cold right up until the moment it's pressed on top — and getting that contrast right, piece by piece, is the whole skill a sushi chef spends years training for.

What it really is

Rice cooks, then seasons while still warm with a mix of rice vinegar, sugar and salt, cooling to just above room temperature before shaping. A chef presses a small handful into an oblong with practiced, even pressure — enough to hold together, not so much that it turns dense or gluey — then lays a thin slice of raw fish over the top, sometimes with a dab of wasabi pressed between rice and fish rather than mixed into a dipping sauce. Each piece is meant to be eaten immediately, in one or two bites, while the rice is still at its intended temperature.

The rice, not the fish, is what most separates a skilled sushi chef's work from a mediocre one. Perfectly fresh fish laid over poorly seasoned, badly shaped or wrong-temperature rice still reads as disappointing sushi — the rice's seasoning, texture and warmth are the constant a chef controls piece after piece, while the fish varies by what's freshest that day.

How it's served

• Freshly pressed, at the counter or on a plate, eaten immediately in one or two bites.
• With a little soy sauce for dipping — fish-side down, not rice-side, so the rice doesn't fall apart or over-absorb the sauce.
• As a main course, whether at a sit-down counter or as part of a larger set.

How to write it on the menu

• Flag the fish, and any shellfish or other seafood used across a set.
• Say which fish or seafood is used for each piece, since guests often have preferences or allergies specific to one type.
• Note if the rice is served warm, since temperature is central to how the dish is meant to be eaten and judged.