Xalwo

Xalwo is a sticky, dense sweet of sugar, starch and ghee, flavoured with cardamom. It is made in Djibouti and also in neighbouring Somalia, where families each keep their own version. It is served at celebrations. It belongs to the halva family, but it is cooked from starch rather than ground sesame, so it is not the crumbly sesame halva sold in many shops.

What it really is

Sugar and water are boiled to a syrup, then cornstarch or wheat flour is stirred in. The mixture is cooked over a low heat, stirred constantly, with ghee and cardamom worked in, until it thickens into a sticky, glossy mass that clings to the spoon. The starch does the setting, so the texture depends on how long it is cooked and which starch is used. Some versions use wheat flour and others use cornstarch.

How it's served

• In small portions, because it is rich, heavy and very sweet.
• At weddings and other celebrations, where it is offered to guests.
• Plain in its classic form, with cardamom as the usual flavouring.

How to write it on the menu

• Name it xalwo, and state the base: wheat flour or cornstarch. The two differ in allergen profile.
• Flag wheat if the recipe uses flour, and flag milk, because ghee is butter fat.
• Say it is vegetarian. Do not call it vegan, since it contains ghee.
• Give the portion size, since guests take it in small pieces.