Grammelknödel

Grammelknödel is a large dumpling studded through with crisp pork cracklings, boiled and often pan-fried after. It's savoury in a way most Austrian dumplings aren't — Marillenknödel and Powidltascherl both lean sweet, filled with fruit, while Grammelknödel is built entirely around crisp, salty pork cracklings folded straight into the dough.

What it actually is

A potato-and-flour dough, similar in base to other Austrian dumplings, gets pork cracklings — the crisp, rendered bits left over from cooking down pork fat — worked directly through it, along with softened onion. Shaped into one large or several smaller dumplings, it boils until cooked through, and often finishes with a quick pan-fry afterward, which crisps the outside while the cracklings inside stay distinctly crunchy against the soft dough.

The cracklings have to stay distinctly crisp inside the dumpling. A version where they've gone soft or been blended too finely into the dough loses the specific contrast — soft potato dough against small, crunchy, salty pieces — that defines Grammelknödel against a plain potato dumpling.

How it's served

• Sliced or whole, with sauerkraut or a simple green salad alongside.
• As a main course, substantial enough on its own.
• Pan-fried after boiling, in many versions, for a crisp outer edge.

Writing it on a menu

• Flag gluten from the flour in the dough.
• Say that it's a savoury dumpling, since Austria's other well-known dumplings on the same menu are often sweet.
• Note that the cracklings stay crunchy inside, a defining texture point.
• Mention what it's served alongside, since sauerkraut or a salad are the traditional pairings.